Yeah I had a similar experience at Mac out at the end of the jetty,took one on the head and heard/felt my leash go. Came to the surface to see my board racing to shore, swam a ways in to where the waves werent breaking on the rocks and climbed up. By the time I got my board one of my fin boxes had been messed up from being bounced down the beach and the fin was gone, but I found it. Thankfully Marty fixed her up nicely for me.
When the sky turns gray, the surfers come out to play!